I have only had a food garden the last two seasons. At least I started. I have learned a lot and was no till from the get go.(Thank you Charles Dowding) I hated separating all the little broadcast seedlings from the garden store starts which had 6 or so plants in each cell. I cried a little, brutalizing the little plants to separate them to get them individualized before getting them in the ground. So I bought the soil blocker kit from Lee Valley tools and hope to smile when I drop the little babies in the without any catastrophic set backs the the little roots and relationship they have started with the biology in the starting mix. I also plant to plant them with a compost extract and wish them well.
Great information in the earlier vid Module C 2.1 Creating a planting schedule. I am still a little behind in getting my bed plan together and what I can manage volume wise as I struggle with new bed placements so have some catch up to do. With the information you are presenting here with local knowledge I feel I will be able to eat better, longer and also have better success than I have had in the ad hoc fashion I was working. Live and learn.
Now my starts. I have had poor success with my starts so far. (and also piss poor planning) I have had mixed results with direct sown plantings outside of carrots. I see them all come up nicely by using covers like pallet boards over the row of seeds or a dog food bag, silver side up, covering a large area (small home garden not market garden) while watching for the first sign of germination, but then the falter or the slugs party at night in my beds and you watch them get stripped one by one. So looking forward to learning more on doing your own starts. (and also watching my soil improve each year helps)
Once question on the direct sewn seeds you mention like squash, and or any others that you may plant into your aging plants that will come out. What about inter planting direct sewn seeds when the other plants are aging out but provide a shaded areas for the seeds to germinate and get established before the previous plantings have been removed for the seedling to then flourish? It all sounds easy and I am sure timing is critical but in that case would you have less pressure from the slugs or other things that may have a party on your sown seedlings? Or is this a more advanced technique to not worry about at this point?
starts for succession planting
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- General
- ↳ Welcome
- ↳ News & New Release Announcements
- ↳ Introductions
- ↳ General Chit-Chat
- ↳ General Questions
- Course Module Discussion
- ↳ A. Building The Soil Food Web
- ↳ 1. Cover the ground with organic matter
- ↳ 2. Cover the ground with living plants
- ↳ 3. Create nutrient rich living compost
- ↳ B. Designing Beautiful Edible Landscapes
- ↳ 1. Designing for convenience
- ↳ 2. Designing for success
- ↳ 3. Designing for lifestyle
- ↳ 4. Designing for beauty
- ↳ C. Planning & Planting Your Vegetable Garden
- ↳ 1. Succession planting
- ↳ 2a. Planting schedules
- ↳ 2b. Record keeping
- ↳ 3. Saving seeds
- ↳ D. Permaculture
- Topics
- ↳ Composting
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