green materials for Hot Compost

 
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TomF
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Andrew, thank you for the webinar today on Composting. It did clarify some Bokashi rules I understood but were not as firmly stated in the Bokashi videos.

So two questions: Bokashi as green materials in compost. I have been using Bokashi for my kitchen scraps as I don't have a freezer to store them until I have enough for a hot compost pile (Elaine style) Since the Bokashi ins anaerobic but maintains good C:N ration for green material, I have been supplementing green component with Bokashi. Since it is compacted and hard to break down and aerate, my piles have not been as good with Bokashi. I have more anaerobic, stinky piles. Do you use it as green component in hot compost in quantity or just a small addition? You did state it is good for firing up an old pile so I have that kicking around too to utilize my Bokashi in.

Second question: aged horse manure as green material. I have a ton of carbon rich materials for compost and I just don't generate a ton of green so I get stuff off the neighbours whenever I can but there are some local stables that I could get manure with bedding from. I have heard that you have to be aware of what the horses are fed as they are not ruminants and will pass on de wormers, and herbicides if the hay they are fed has herbicides in it. Both are not good with the dewormers effecting the microbes in your compost pile and the herbicides impacting your leafy greens you are trying to grow. What would you recommend or what should I inquire about when trying to source horse manure/bedding for a compost pile here in North Vancouver?
PeasIntheRain
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Here is an NC State university extension programme post about which herbicides you should ask about, when considering the use of straw or animal manure (when animals are fed crops treated with these): https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/herbicide-carryover

Note that some break down quickly and are not of concern. That article shows you which ones last longer and may carry over into the soil.
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Andrew
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Question 1) I add 50 gallons to 10 yards (or more) of compost and that pile will then be monitored closely and turned once temperatures exceed 55C/130F. Keep that pile aerobic and then once the core temperature stabilizes at around 50C/120F I will let it sit until core temp drops below 40C/100F and I will then apply it to the field. I will not apply it to beds with living plants as the compost is still pretty warm, I do this for new beds or beds where there aren't young plants. Older plants and perennials can generally handle some warm compost. Spreading out the compost 15cm thick will cool it off and then you could apply it.

If you compost is compacted and overly wet its going to be stinky and have a hard time. To fix this, blend in some wood chips (ideally dry) to absorb some of that moisture and to provide porosity.

Question 2) Horse, and any kind of manure is great provided you find out what the animal was fed and what it was medicated with. 100% find out what they were fed and where it originated from. Find out how often they are dewormed. It is possible to find it clean but you have to ask. Nothing wrong with a little science experiment... build a pile, let it age at least a year and then get it tested, nature can, with time, and microbial diversity remediate a fair bit of the toxic garbage we put into our soil.
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