unproductive beets

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PeasIntheRain
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In yesterday's webinar, Dan mentioned that beets do well even in the initial stages of a no-till system.

So... I'm trying to figure out why I've never successfully achieved a good beet crop in the 3 years of attempts here in a very wet, not-very-sunny zone 8. The soil has been improving year on year but the beets are still wimpy.

The germination is OK but not great; I seed in place in at least 3 plantings 2 to 3 weeks apart, so at least one round should have good conditions. The plants get to a few leaves and then... not much happens. I think last year we had 5 or 6 beets of a size worth eating. I've tried three varieties, spring planting and summer planting, different spots in the garden, and so on. I even tried the old-school idea of placing wood ashes near the growing row. Honestly, this kind of problem is why I'm taking the course. My garden here just doesn't work like gardens I've had elsewhere.

I'd love to sort it out because they're my second-favourite green and a staple crop where I grew up. I'd been assuming the sunlight was the limiting factor (my garden beds are not shaded by trees, but we have very few moments of sunlight without cloudy skies); I'm now wondering if the local straw I had available for mulch was contaminated with something long-term (hard to get real info about its history).

Any other ideas? Thanks.
Danoost
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We need to resolve this issue.

* Keep seed moist but not saturated at all times until they emerge.

* Water consistently throughout growing period but don't overwater. Over watering is a major contributing factor to poor beet performance.

* Give plants lots of space. Space around 6-10" apart.

* Full sun is best but we have lots of cloudy days too here on the we(s)t coast.

* We've grown beets in a fairly coarse mulch but finer soil will improve germination.

* Give them a boost of nitrogen rich compost ever couple weeks after they're around 3" tall.

I hope this helps!
jack oostenbrink
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One other factor that you may wish to consider, (as you seem to already be employing many correct principles of gardening) is the acidity of the soil. Beets and most vegetable crops with the exception of potatoes, prefer soil that is only slightly acidic and our soils tend to acidity on the west coast. Why don't you try adding some dolomite lime to part of your beet bed to see if this will make a difference?
PeasIntheRain
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Thanks, Dan. I'll see if the greater amount of N available this year helps and I'll keep them a bit further apart. I don't usually have to water in any substantive amount until mid-July, so perhaps the issue early on might be excess moisture. I see a lot of buttercup and cress pop up which is also a sign of heavy and wet soils, even though I'd say the soils are not heavy (no clay) but rather rich in leaf litter and extraordinarily well-draining (2 days without rain here and the soil is bone dry).

Thanks, Jack. I have a bad feeling that acidity is the big factor in my garden here. The reason I have been so hesitant to add lime is the fact that mineral resources are finite, come from mining with its associated challenges, and are transported in over long distances (with associated packaging, etc.). I've added some wood ash, which can help a little, given that wood will be burned here regardless of what I do (forestry companies burn slash piles in the spring whether or not people harvest firewood from the slash). I've been trying to learn and boost production of native crops (limited in scope here) or those that will grow in unamended soils here. That said, I haven't quite made it to giving up tomatoes and so on from my diet, but I'm still learning and still grappling with what I will give up to be truly sustainable in a given location...

I'll report back. This year, I'm trying beet type Shiraz.
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